FASHION SHOW OF THE SEASON

text by David Ševčík

Martin Kohout and we share many things in common. Our approach to creation, the way we think about fashion, our respect for craftsmanship, and a determination to follow our own path. We first spoke about his large-scale show, Punk, which captivated Prague in mid-May, more than a year ago. With his characteristic attention to every detail, Martin approached us with the idea of scenting the entire fashion show. We embraced the concept enthusiastically, but circumstances ultimately led us in a different direction. When the venue changed to a vast studio space in Strahov – a location we found remarkable – we had to abandon the plan. Yet, in an unexpected way, we eventually returned to it. The fashion show took place just days before the launch of Aereo, and so the runway did, after all, carry a scent. Waiting on every guest’s seat was a sample of our new fragrance, offering its very first introduction to Prague. Just as Aereo marked a new chapter for us, Punk represented a significant shift in Martin’s work. For the first time, music served as the primary inspiration behind the collection’s 23 looks. Moving away from the romantic narratives that have defined much of his previous work, the collection embraces a rawer language. The cuts are uncompromising, the garments appear as if they are dissolving and losing their form. Yet beneath this apparent disintegration lies the same clear intention that has been present in Martin’s work from the very beginning.

We asked Martin a few questions on behalf of ourselves and our readers, and invited him to offer a glimpse into his creative process.


How does AEREO make you feel? What does it bring to mind?
I enjoy its intensity. I like fragrances that make an impression the moment someone enters a room, yet never feel overwhelming. Aereo works exactly like that – it stands out effortlessly and remains instantly recognizable. To be honest, it is currently my favourite fragrance from the Pigmentarium collection.


You come across as an exceptionally calm, gentle, and thoughtful person. So where does punk fit into the story? What does it say about you? What does it teach us?
I always have to smile when I think about how much tension and nervous energy actually goes into my work. I felt the need to create a collection that would mark a clear milestone for me — one that would stand apart from my previous work and present my design language in a slightly different light, while remaining authentic and recognisable.


I believe we share an important perspective on creative work: that craftsmanship can be pursued with such care, intention, and depth that it begins to approach the realm of art. What are the principles that underpin your work?
The boundary between art, craftsmanship, and design is very fluid, and I think that is a good thing. In my own work, I always try to find a clear narrative, a strong concept that carries the piece itself. Everything begins with an idea, and from that point the entire process unfolds.


Photographs — and often even a front-row seat at a fashion show — rarely reveal what matters most. Some of the most important aspects remain unseen. Is there anything hidden from view that you can share with us?
There is certainly a great deal. Once again, it comes down to the process and the handwork behind every single piece. I develop my garments directly in three dimensions, shaping them on a mannequin almost like sculptures. Each piece is unique. I do not repeat them, nor do I intend to.

photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková